Action Directe (climb)
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Action Directe is a famously difficult sport climb in the Frankenjura, Germany.
While being generally recognized as the world's first 9a (5.14d), Güllich actually gave the route a UIAA grade of XI. It was the first recognised route of the grade, and is considered by many to be something of a benchmark for the grade. It is also famous for its style, involving long dynamic moves off single-finger pockets. Wolfgang Güllich invented the campus board to train the very specific technique needed for this route.[citation needed]
Contents
History
Milan Sykora bolted this line in the 80's with a start from the neighboring line to the right. The first ascent (FA) was by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991, who climbed the route using a 16 move sequence and a more direct start with a dynamic jump into a two-finger pocket. Dai Koyamada used a different sequence with only 11 moves.
Ascents
The repeat ascents were by:
- Alexander Adler on 9 September 1995.
- Iker Pou on 7 June 2000.
- Dave Graham on 21 May 2001.
- Christian Bindhammer on 14 May 2003.
- Rich Simpson on 13 October 2005 (his ascent has been questioned by UKC, and many other climbing sites [1]).
- Dai Koyamada on 15 October 2005.
- Markus Bock on 22 October 2005.
- Kilian Fischhuber on 25 September 2006.
- Adam Ondra on 19 May 2008.
- Patxi Usobiaga on 24 October 2008.
- Gabriele Moroni on 17 April 2010.
- Jan Hojer on 22 May 2010.
- Adam Pustelnik on 10 October 2010.[2]
- Felix Knaub on 22 October 2011.[3]
- Rustam Gelmanov on 26 March 2012
- Alexander Megos on 3 May 2014 [4]
- Felix Neumärker on 16 May 2015 [5]
- Julius Westphal on 25 June 2015 [6]
References
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- 2nd ascent by Alexander Adler[dead link]
- 3rd ascent by Iker Pou[dead link]
- 4th ascent by Dave Graham
- 5th ascent by Christhian Bindhammer
- 6th ascent by Rich Simpson
- 7th ascent by Dai Koyamada
- 8th ascent by Markus Bock
- 9th ascent by Kilian Fischhuber
- 10th ascent by Adam Ondra
- 11th ascent by Patxi Usobiaga
- 16th ascent by Rustam Gelmanov
INTERVIEWS
- Rich Simpson interview on Action Directe
- Dai Koyamada interview on Action Directe
- Markus Bock interview on Action Directe
- Kilian Fischhuber interview on Action Directe
- Jan Hoyer interview on Action Directe (video)
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